Death Moth Resin Stained Glass

Hey ghouls and creeps! I’ve been collecting and researching information on this project for a couple weeks. Truthfully resin is a medium I am not as familiar with, but I just couldn’t resist this project idea! I love when I dabble in a new medium because it usually requires me to break out of my cushy creative comfort zone and break into adaptable solution creator territory.

You never know what could come out of experimenting with a material that you find interesting! Who knows, you may find that you really enjoy said medium, and start incorporating it into your work more regularly. Or at the very least, you’ll decide that it may not be for you, and the project was just a good exercise in acquiring new techniques and knowledge. All this to say, if you have any further tips or tricks for resin please feel free to leave your input below in the comments!

The information that I gathered for this project came from a variety of sources. One of these sources includes Evan and Katelyn’s Recreating Stained Glass with Resin YouTube video: https://youtu.be/_OARW_sX3Ow . Other sources include Resin Craft’s Wood Framed Faux Stained Glass tutorial: https://resincraftsblog.com/wood-framed-faux-stained-glass/ . As well as resin expertise and mastery from Resin Obsession, John Malecki, and Xyla Foxlin from Narwhal Labs. Let’s get started!

I rated the Death Moth Resin Stained Glass project as easy! Once you have your moth cut from your basswood, simply coat your project in acrylic spray paint, prepare resin, then pour your resin into the cutouts of the moth. It’s that easy!

Step 1: Cut your Death Moth: Using the JPG or SVG files below, cut your stained glass frame with your laser cutter or Cricut machine. Finished dimensions of your death moth will be: 8”X4”X1/8”.

SVG file: https://bjdiycutfiles.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/stained+glass+moth-01.svg

Step 2: Seal your Death Moth: To seal your wood cutout before the resin pour, apply at least two coats of an acrylic or resin spray. Another option I found was to paint a layer of resin over your piece. Be sure to apply your sealant to all surfaces of your cutout. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for preparation and dry times.

I have a makeshift painting booth made from a cardboard box with one side collapsed by cutting along the corners of the box. This painting booth option can easily be set in a variety of places outdoors while protecting other surfaces from being painted too!

Step 3: Prepare Resin and Workspace: Begin by leveling the table so that the resin doesn’t cure unevenly. Tape wax paper or foil around the bottom of the box that will be housing your stained glass piece. This will protect your table from unforeseen resin leaks.

Take your wood cut out and place heavy-duty packing tape on the entire backside. Press the tape firmly so that it seals to the wood, but gently so that the wood doesn’t accidentally break.

Place the taped piece inside of your box. If you have a silicone mat, you could also tape around the perimeter of your cut-out to the mat using outdoor painter’s tape. Pro-tip: if you opt for the silicon mat option, pour a thin layer of clear resin into your stained glass voids prior to adding the dyed resin. This will keep your colors from mixing!

Step 4: Fill Moth Voids with Resin: Place the hardener and resin into cups of hot water to warm up the bottle contents and leave for five minutes.

In a measuring cup pour equal parts hardener and resin.

Stir the measuring cup contents for approximately two minutes. The mixture should be clear with no striations and be sure to scrape the sides as you stir. Transfer the resin and hardener to another cup and continue mixing for another minute. If the contents are not combined evenly the resin won’t cure and you’ll have gooey blobs or soft resin!

Pour the mixed resin into separate cups. Distribute the resin by surface area, in other words, dominant colors get more resin. Stir resin in each cup to combine with dye. Place a couple of drops of your transparent resin dyes into your cups, one dye per cup.

Take a syringe and distribute the dyed resin into the resin cavities of your moth. Continue to fill each void (with the exception of the hole in the center of the head) until your moth is completely filled! The hole in the moth’s head will be your hanging hole! To avoid leaking and coloring mixing(see image below), place a weight on top of the moth to keep wood flush with the box.

Allow the resin to cure for twenty-four hours prior to hanging.

Yay! You’re finished! Hang up your new faux stained glass resin piece in the window!

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Ready for your next project? Here are some tutorials on the blog I think you’ll like! Frame Flip tutorial: https://britnijade.com/frame-flip/, Macrame Wall Hanging: https://britnijade.com/macrame-wall-hanging-w-bones/, or the Spider Web Macrame: https://britnijade.com/spider-web-macrame/. Enjoy!